Arctic Trucks

A call from Gisli 27. Nov, 17:30

We got back to Nov at 21:00 last night the 26th, besides the problem with the radiator the trip back was fairly easy and fast.  We left the fuel drop at 12:00 the 23rd so we were 3 days and 9 hours to drive the 1.500 km.  I have not calculated the fuel consumption yet but it was much lower then when we drove there.   We could use our track and keep a good speed except in the saztrukies areas; the speed was from 15km/hour up to 70 km/hours.  It is funny to see how little snow has been added since last year, we could often see our tracks from last year very clearly.
We have some great pictures both of the fuel drop, pictures of one of the pallets almost hitting our tent and then we took lots of pictures when we got down to the mountains again, this new route thought the mountains is very fascinating, we walked to the top of one mountain there that does not seam to have a name on the maps we named it Þórshamar (Thorshammer).  It was a great walk that took us only 2 hours.  We are on our way to the airbase now and will try to connect to the Internet and send some pictures, hopefully the Internet works now.
We have rested today but tomorrow we will change the radiator and as we have some extra time until the next flight comes they are talking about having us find a save way to „Tanes Haten?“.   The Russians did this trip once before many years ago with snowmobiles and they had huge problems with the equipment falling into crevasses and no one has dared to go again.  The radar will is a great help. 
The radiator was really damaged by the frost and was leaking very badly and we had to fix it somehow.  It took us some time to locate the problem and then we used epoxy clue to fix it, we had to remove the radiator clean it, clue and heat the clue, pressure test it and put it in again.  All in all this took us some 12 hours.   By chaining the setup we can prevent this in the future.  Otherwise the cars are in great shape and ready.

Best from all of us, Gisli.

26th Nov 2009
 
Broke camp, and decided to climb one of the unnamed Nanatuks, it was hard going especially for me but were determined to make the top. Amazing rock formation, of wind eroded metamorphic rock, just full of all types of minerals. It was also full of curious circular holes apparently caused by gravel and stones that are blown around in the hole which gradually erodes it further…amazing process that must take years.
 
The ice cliff at the bottom must have been 50m high.
 
We also saw two snow petrels which found us a curiosity. The open sea is bout 300-400 kms away, so they had a long flight!
 
After climbing the mountain which was about 2650 m we then drove on to Novo.
Nice to see all the fantastic shapes in the very eroded and special mountains, took lots of photos.
 
Improved the route on the way back, though did come across some crevasses, which we of course tried to avoid.
 
Arrived back at Novo to be greeted by a whole group of Russians, who were all thanking us for such a successful trip.
 
It seemed almost strange to see so many people, and so much color from the cabins, and buildings.
 
Eventually went back to the Oasis where our cabin was where we had a shower and sauna. Fantastic, after being in the same clothes for over two weeks.
 
Of course the Russian hospitality is almost overwhelming, with cold beer, Vodka, good food and of course lots of stories about the amazing world of Antarctica.
 
We slept well tonight.

24th  25th  Nov 2009
 
It was serious as we lost all coolant. Stopped and set up tent, it was about -37C.
Took off radiator and found that the many of the downtubes were leaking at the base, likely caused by ice in these extreme conditions. Cleaned up area, and used Arildite to fix it! Freyr is now know as Mr Arildite. A fantastic fix by all in such extreme conditions. All together spent 12 hrs before getting back moving. Decided to make it to the Basler crash site where a spare radiator would be flown in… a long drive!
It was more difficult driving but it seemed that at least the radiator was ok. All of us took turns driving, even so it was difficult to stay awake.
Also Alexander the parachutist will be flown out at the Basler crash site.
 
Finally reached the Basler site just as the plane was arriving, also a Basler (DC3 with turbines and skis), and a Twin Otter. Since leaving the site over a week ago it had turned into tent city, with lots of people apparently trying to look busy, though it seemed not much had been down on the crashed plane, as liitle snow had been removed, maybe all the work is being done of the inside. Plane is worth 5M$ not bad for something built in 1943, also the Antarctic treaty requires it must be removed, flown out or carried out!
 
Said goodbye to Alexander, fuelled up and pressed on to the mountains, (we alos picked up ground radar on the way) where we set up camp in low sun, and amazing colors, it was so good to see and be in the mountains again. The camp was by a group of nanatuks, which were shining red in the low sun.
 
Had a excellent meal with desert, washed down with a little vodka and tea!
 
Had a fantastic nights sleep though even though it was -24C outside we had o sleep on top of our sleeping bags as it was too warm in the tent!
 

23rd Nov 2009
 
Up later than expected as we were all so tired. It was also very warm in the tent even though outside it was 35C, packed up rest of camp and started the 1500 km journey back to Novo. Followed our old tracks back which made going a lot easier.
Nobody or nothing can prepare you for the vastness, the whiteness, and the extremes of the Antarctic plateau. It was 100 kms of the same conditions, and when we saw a cloud it became a discussion point!
Started again having problems with coolant on one of the trucks.

22nd Nov 2009
 
Finished off the work after breakfast, and prepared for departure for Novo.

21st Nov 2009

It was decided to send plane today, arrival at +/- 1430. Set off smoke flares at each corner of drop zone as plane arrived. Seemed not to line up with drop zone, and starting dropping the fuel drums across and outside the drop zone. Drop was from a 450 m height and was spectacular though many of the drums were landing uncomfortably close to the tent!. Plane made several runs about 6/7 in total and dropped about 220 drums 8 at a time. Plane then made low sweep at about 50 m, which was very special. Plane went up to 2000 m then the parachute specialist made his parachute jump and landed close to the camp. He was the expert to check condition of drums and parachutes. He told us that he is the first to survive a parachute jump in Antarctica, which we had know this at first!

Had a 100% success rate, much better than last time, where several of the parachutes failed.
Started then to sort out drums and arrange them in piles, it was cold work as it was about -37C.
Used crane on trucks to lift up drums and move them around. Job went well and we managed to do 2/3rds by the evening. Decided to do rest next day.
 

18th to 20th Nov 2009

Weather still ok, but very cold, so even the -50C antifreeze is freezing. Packed up after breakfast, and made good progress, up to 45-50 km/hr at some times. However had problems with coolant on one of the trucks, leakage and air in system. Managed to sort out. Continued driving through small strusugi (blown snow features), then we had some problems with ice forming in fuel, but quickly managed to sort this and then continued. Still cold and nothing but blue sky and mirages

As we were making such good progress decided to continue on to the fuel drop area, and we actually arrived early in the morning on the 19th, and could see that it would be a good area for both the fuel drop and future landing area. We are at 83deg 20min south. Weather still cold around -35 – 45C, but we are warm in the tent…though the Vodka froze again…well this is a Russian expedition! Tried to get data link working but the signal strength intermittent, and bandwidth only bits per second at times!

The area we are at is basically featureless, a white desert that goes on and on for 100,s of km,s. The air is so dry at the altitude (2600m), you need to make sure that you drink lots of water. The weather is remarkably good with 24hr sun, and little wind. The arrival of clouds are always discussion points!

Prepared a 200 x 600 m drop zone. The drop is planned for the morning of the 21th, but may be delayed due bad weather in Novo. The plan landed there yesterday in 24 m/s cross winds on an ice runway!
Data link on Iridium phone is unbelievably slow and erratic so it’s impossible to send photos, or anything else that matter.